Power Fade

by  |  earlier

0 LIKES UnLike




  1. This is from the December, 1979 Golf Magazine. As you can see from Trevino's description, the shot is really a "push" shot hit with the more powerful in-out swing of the better player. It is not, in any sense, a mild slice as many uninformed people think. This shot completely turned my game around. It is also what Ben Hogan and Jack Nicklaus used.


    Here is a simple method that will help you develop an accurate left-to-right shot


    “There are probably as many different ways to draw and fade the ball, as  there are tacos in Mexico I'm sure you've heard about many of them.  Strong and weak grips. Opened and closed clubfaces.  Inside and outside  takeaways. Early and late releases. Light and tight grip pressures. But  most of these methods are unreliable, particularly when you try to mix  them up in your golf game.

    My theory is that you should have one favorite shot, either a fade or a  draw, and use it almost all the time.  I favor the fade. But not an  ordinary fade, with an open clubface or weak grip or outside to inside  swing.  Those types are too fickle. One mistake in timing, one  miscalculation and the fade you expected can become a blue dart into the  left trees.  No, I have my own technique, unlike anything you've heard  of before.  It has worked for me, and it can work for you. Even if you  are a slicer, my technique will help you control your slice, and as a  bonus, help you hit a draw, as well.

    I almost always "push" the ball. That's the easy way to think of my  fade, as a push/fade to the target. Very little can go wrong: Your  wrists can't roll over and surprise you with a snap hook. You don't have  to worry about releasing early or late, because, in effect, you don't  release at all. And. you don't need to fret about a "double cross"  aiming left and hitting farther left by mistake. With my method, the  ball drifts to the right every time.

    To begin, make sure your shoulders, hips and feet line up to the left of  your intended target with the shoulders slightly less open than the  hips and feet.  Aim the clubface at the target, open to your body  alignment.

    Play the ball about one to two inches inside your left heel and start  the club back along the target line.  This will put the club on an  inside path in relation to your body.

    On the forward swing, shift your hips laterally toward the target and  swing the club down on the target line, holding your release and keeping  the clubhead on the target line well after impact.  You should have the  feeling of swinging very much inside-to-outside and in fact, you are.

    "Inside out?" you might ask. "Doesn't that cause a draw?" Yes, it does,  but only when your swing is inside out in relation to your target line.  This swing is inside out in relation to the body alignment, but straight  back to straight through in relation to the target line (see  illustration). You won't draw the ball with this swing. If anything, you  will contact the ball after the club has swung down and back to, the  inside on the forward swing, thus putting a slight left to right spin on  the ball .

    So you have two big pluses here: First, you have an inside to outside  attack in relation to your body. This is much more powerful than the  outside-to inside swings that many amateurs use to fade the ball.  Second, you have the club moving down the target line, producing either a  straight ball or slight fade. You can't beat that combination.

    Here's a trick that might help you understand this a little better.  After you set up, imagine that there are three golf balls in front of  the one you're about to hit (see illustration). For the fade, you want  to hit through all four balls. This will force your right shoulder down  rather than around on the downswing, with your arms extending toward the  target on the follow through. Keep in mind that the right shoulder  doesn't dip. That would cause fat shots. Instead, the shoulder simply  swivels underneath the chin. As a result, you will hold your release,  keep the club moving down the target line, and push the ball to the  hole, with very little sidespin.

    I have, however, encountered one "problem" among people who have tried  this method. They say to me, "Lee, when I swing your way, I hit the ball  way to the right.   I just tell them, "Aim farther left.” Don't open  your stance more; just shift your entire orientation to the left.  In  other words, rather than aim the clubface down the fairway or at the  pin, aim it at an intermediate target more to the left and shift your  body alignment farther to the left as well. There's no rule that says  you have to aim down the middle. Line up for the trees on the left and  push it down the fairway.  It's easy, when you know for sure that you  can hit the push/fade.

    The beauty of the balls in a line image is that you can use it to draw  the ball, too. For the right to left shot, line up your body parallel to  the target line and aim your clubface at an intermediate target to the  right, to allow for the draw.  Then, simply think of picking off the  first ball in line, the real ball, without touching the three imaginary  ones. This brings the right shoulder and club up quickly in the follow  through, and whenever the club and shoulder move up, they go  counterclockwise as well, which closes the clubface. Result: a draw.

    Try my method.  You'll see how easy it is to fade and draw the ball.   You'll always know where the ball is going.  And in golf, there's no  substitute for accuracy. I can vouch for that.

    A key to hitting consistent, solid fades is to keep the right shoulder moving down under the chin through impact.”

You're reading: Power Fade

Question Stats

Latest activity: earlier.
This question has 1 answers.


Share your knowledge and help people by answering questions.